China trip part 1

We finally made it to April 1st... our China trip!!!!! We have been so excited for this trip for months now. We began planning it while I was 7 months pregnant with Brayden, which was way back in September. We have always wanted to go to China but it has been difficult in the recent past for military members, such as Kyle, to get permission to go. There was a window frame where it was ok and allowed so we jumped on it and started planning the trip. We decided to be very conservative and cautious and make sure we were always with a tour guide during this trip, so we booked it through the Yokuska base ITT program. The nice part was it was a private tour in which we got to pick everything we wanted to see and do, not having to wait around for others or sitting in a bus while our kids scream bloody murder. It was a little pricier than a normal tour, but well worth it with kids.

We started out by flying from Misawa to Tokyo, then over to Beijing. The kids were just as excited and loved the cute (kawaii) meals the Japanese airlines provided for them. I had to laugh because on the flight to Beijing each seat had a private TV where you could select from various movies they offered to watch. For the kids there was a wide variety of movies from Mickey Mouse, Finding Dory, to even the newer movies such as Sing. Did my kids want to watch any of these? Of course not, instead they wanted to watch the Japanese cartoon of Adnpanman. The best part is i actually think Abby could understand and follow the language and follow the story line. They certainly are my Japanese babies. After all, this is practically all that they know.

We arrived to Beijing very late. Going through customs made it even later as the Chinese borders are very strict, especially with us being US citizens. When we made it through our tour guide, whose English name was Barry, met us and took us to our car. We drove straight to our hotel in which the kids passed out on the way there... after much screaming and fit throwing to make a good first impression to our tour guide and driver. Kyle and I were able to get glimpse of the city Beijing at night. Even at night the smog was so thick that it dulled the bright lights of the city. I had heard that China had a lot of pollution and smog, but I didn't think it was going to be that bad. Between the 1.3 billion Chinese people and all the cars, theres no wonder it's so polluted. Something else we instantly noticed was that everyone smokes...everyone. The smell of cigarettes constantly filled our noses. By the end of our trip we didn't notice the smell anymore, we had become so accustomed to it. It was when I opened my suitcase to do laundry upon our arrival home that I realized all our clothes stank of cigarette smoke. So long story short, it was constant throughout our whole trip. 

Another factor we realized right away in our first drive to our hotel is that there are no laws or rules on the road. People were in and out of lines, punching the gas and slamming the breaks. In fact, the road lines are just mere guidelines in which no one follows. Pedestrians just run across the street whenever, and cars will cut off other cars making drivers constantly laying on the horn. At first I thought this was how I was going to die, death by chinese car accident. Like the cigarette smell we eventually became used to it and it didn't phase us as much as our trip progressed. There are so many people there  that we decided China is one big game of "chicken." people walk straight towards each other or drive straight towards each other because there is no room, but somehow they always move out of each others way in the nick of time. If you don't like crowds, or get claustrophobic, China is not the place for you. 

As soon as we arrived to our hotel we transferred the kids and passed out ourselves. Tomorrow was to be the start of our China adventure. Barry would meet us in the lobby of our hotel at 8:00 in the morning, and then we would head to the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. 

After what seemed like the shortest nights worth of sleep ever, we woke up bright and early, ate breakfast at the hotel, which was surprisingly delicious, and met up with Barry and our driver. Seeing Beijing in the day light gave us a whole different view. It was still smoggy, and there were still tons of people everywhere, but we really were able to see how spectacular the city was. I know I already said it but having our own private tour with our own driver and vehicle was soooooo worth it. He dropped us off right at the curb for entrance to the City Square, and our tour guide had already made arrangements so we were able to bypass all the lines (or should I say masses) of people waiting to enter. There was very strict security at Tiananmen square, but surprisingly they let us by without hardly any security briefing or screening. I asked Barry why we were able to get by so easily and he said it's because we are not Chinese. In China many Chinese people come to Tiananmen square in hopes to create a big scene, start a riot, or even release bombs to gain attention as they protest their government. Since we are just tourists they are not worried about us causing a scene. I know China is a Communist country, but it wasn't till that moment that I finally understood the reality of it. The people were not allowed to have a voice or speak freely like we do back in America. 

Tiananmen Square is the largest city square in the world! And boy was it big! We first saw the old buildings used as fortresses to keep out enemies at the corners of the city square, and then we came upon Chairman Mao's tomb. It was a huge building dedicated to him and his burial location. There were many people there giving their respect. We were not able to go inside the building as it was closed that day, but we did notice the two large statues outside representing the farmers and working class rising to the top. This was Mao's main motivation when he was in control, to bring equality to the poor. What seemed like a great idea turned into communism, and good became evil and the people because subject to his dictatorship. Even today communism is still enforced, though it is much more relaxed from Mao's days. The Chinese people still adore him and honor him though, especially the older generation. They are quick to overlook the faults of Mao and still regard him as a great leader.

Right next to the Square was the Forbidden City. It is the world's largest surviving palace complex and consists of 980 buildings. It was designed to be the center of the ancient walled in Beijing city, which is enclosed in a larger walled area called the Imperial City. Lets just say there are a lot of walls in China. Everything in the Forbidden City had symbolism to it. Yellow is the color of the Emperor, so all the roofs were bronzed yellow. The dragon also represents the Emperor, and the Phoenix represents the Empress. Both decorate the different buildings throughout the city. Lions represent power, and the lion playing with the cub represents the Empress again, always watching after and bearing children, while the lion with the sphere represent she Empreror ruling the world. 

Throughout the city there were special things just for the Emperor. The middle bridge connecting two parts of the city was only for the emperor to walk on, the same goes for several rooms in which the emperor was only allowed in. We all felt pretty special walking across the emperor's bridge and enjoying the beautiful city created just for him, but no one enjoyed it more than emperor Connor himself. It was like he knew it was for royalty, and that's exactly where he belonged. It was fun to watch him strut his stuff all over the forbidden city thinking he owned the place. 

It honestly was so amazing and breathtaking. The buildings, the roofs, the bridges, the doors all had such amazing detail and it was all preserved so well. I loved getting to see all the history and experiencing it with my family. At times I would find myself just standing and staring, wanting to pinch myself to make sure I was actually there and that it wasn't a dream. The Forbidden City did not disappoint, that I am sure of. 

Throughout the trip we ate like kings! The best part was we showed up, they brought us food, and then we left. Everything was pre ordered and paid for ahead of time so we didn't have to worry about it. In all our cities we made sure to try the local specialty. In Beijing it was peeking duck, Xiian was dumplings, and in Shanghai it was hot pot. Along with the specialty plate they brought out for us to eat, we also ate tons of other delicious traditional Chinese food. It was all so delicious, and even the kids loved it. We were never able to finish the food they gave us because they brought out such large portions. Knock off Chinese food just doesn't do real Chinese food justice, sorry Panda Express.

Our tour guide really wanted to take us to a tea house and watch a tea ceremony and drink different types of tea. We were interested in watching the tea ceremony but told him we would pass on the drinking tea part since we don't drink tea. He was so surprised that we didn't drink tea and suggested that we go to the pearl and jade factories instead. This was a good substitute for us because it captivated the kid's attentions better in my opinion. 

We learned about the difference in pearls and their different colors. Due to water temperature and climate on the shores of China it is one of the only locations in the world where you can find purple pearls. I had never seen a purple pearl before. We got to crack open an oyster and see that they contain several pearls, not just one like I had thought. The kids though fishing for the oysters was pretty rad too.

Later we went to the jade factory and learned about the significance of jade in Chinese culture. I thought all jade was green, but we learned that it comes in various shades including white and yellow. The Chinese people believe that jade will bring you fortune and good health. Most Chinese women wear jade bangles on their wrist. Over time the oils from their skin make the jade even more smooth and it changes colors. I was so tempted to get a jade bracelet, but jade is not as popular back in America like it is in China. Perhaps I could start a new trend! 

We then went to the Temple of Heaven. In ancient China, the Emperor was regarded as the son of Heaven who administered earthly matters on behalf of heavenly authority. The temple was build to show respect to the Emperor and his heavenly origin. Twice a year the Emperor would move from the Forbidden city through Beijing to encamp within the temple complex, wearing special ceremonial robes and abstaining from eating meat. It was forbidden for ordinary Chinese people to view the procession to the temple. Once there, the emperor would pray and give sacrifices mainly concerning good harvest for the upcoming months. 

The temple and giant alter were beautiful. So much work and detail and of course symbolism. The Chinese believe that the earth was square and the sky, or heavens, was round. Therefore everything was either in circular or square shapes representing the two realms. The alter was circular, but enclosed in a square wall. We were lucky to visit the temple on a beautiful sunny day, and walk through the gardens surrounding it. 

The next day we went to the Great Wall of China. I was so excited I could hardly sit still on the car ride there. We came up with a great system in our car for all our travels out and about. Abby and Connor sat in the back in which we propped up our iPad and showed a movie for them to watch while Kyle, Brayden and myself sat in the middle row so we could look and and see while our tour guide sat up front and explained different places and things to us along the way. 

We went to the north pass of the wall called the Juyongguan pass. This particular section of the wall was used as a strong defensive point. In was a location that held many guards that would occasionally battle outsiders to keep Beijing safe from intruders. This particular portion had very steep parts and it winded up and down the mountainous land. 

As soon as we got there I had a hard time holding back the tears. Barry let us wonder along the wall alone and we set up a meeting spot for when we were all done. walking along the Great Wall of China with my favorite humans ever will be a memory I will never forget. My whole life I had dreamed of seeing the Great Wall of China, and here I was, actually on it! We wanted to get the full experience so we decided to hike up the large, uneven steps to the first lookout point up the mountain. There were so many people there and the hike was very steep. I normally don't get scared of heights but after hiking half way up I turned around and started to panic at the view I saw. It would take just one person to fall and we would all fall down like dominoes it was that packed. Since the wall is so old they had to install a hand rail to help make it more safe for those who decided to make the climb. I tried to imagine what it would have been like back in it's glory days of soldier running up and down the stairs, shooting arrows from the look out locations to defend their border. I would have been a terrible soldier and most likely would have fallen all over the place taking out some other soldiers with me I'm sure.

We because quite the scene ourselves. Kyle had Abby strapped to his back and Connor occasionally in his arms (although I must give Connor props cause he hiked up almost all the way by himself!) and I had Brayden strapped to my chest with our large backpack on my back. People would point and stare at us as we climbed up the steep stairs of the wall. occasionally we would hear people gasp and say "sun" which means three in Chinese. So not only did we stand out because we are obviously white and very western looking, we also have three kids. Just a couple years ago the Chinese law changed from people allowed to have one child to two. Of course people could have more than one child in previous years but they were fined a heavy price in which many could not afford. So most people only had one child, and now a few have two since the restriction on children is lighter. So the sight of THREE kids was just amazing to them.

If you ever want to feel good about yourself, just go to China. We felt like celebrities everywhere we went. We would be walking along and people would jump right in front of us and take a picture with us. Everyone wanted a picture with the kids and to try to speak to us in their broken english they learned in their schooling. Our light skin and light eyes really amazed the Chinese people and Barry told us that everyone though we looked like movie stars. It was kind of fun at first, but got old very quickly as we couldn't go anywhere without being gawked at, pointed at, or asked to take a picture with someone. Paparazzi, please, let the famous Benham family be :)

After spending over an hour on the Great Wall we decided it was time to leave and get some lunch. I do hope we can make it back again some day. The Great Wall of China truly is a World Wonder. It was amazing and beautiful. I could not believe it was still standing and in such great condition. Throughout our time on the wall I had to wipe away several tears of just pure joy and and disbelief. Yes, I realize I am pathetic but I tend to get emotional about these kind of things.I mean think of the history that has taken place right there on that wall, and to think we are now part of it too!!!!!

After lunch we finished the day exploring the Summer Palace. The Summer Palace was built for the emperor and his household to enjoy during the summer months. He had slaves dig a huge lake that is completely man made and now covers 2.2 Kilometers. The man made lake was made into the shape of a peach which again symbolizes longevity for the emperor. We happened to visit the Summer Palace on a Chinese holiday so there were so many people we could hardly move. We walked along the perimeter of the lake in which there is a long corridor that was built just for the Emperor. No one else back in the day was allowed to walk along the corridor but the emperor himself. Besides the massive amount of humanity that was there, it was quite beautiful. We were able to see all the trees in bloom since it was spring time, and the light breeze kept us from not being too hot. 

It was there that we were fully introduced to the squatting position that Asians are so fond of. We saw old people squat along the corridor, as if they were sitting for a brief pause to relax. Nothing about the position looked relaxing. Everywhere in China there are squatty potties, A.K.A a giant hole in the ground that you squat over and do your "business" in. When entering a bathroom stall you step up onto the little platform and squat over the hole. Depending on the location you could actually flush afterwards like a normal toilet, and in some locations it was like a troff that ran under several stalls so you could see everyones "business" floating down the "stool canal." It was absolutely disgusting. The cleanliness was horrific! Thank goodness I brought hand sanitizer cause there was no such thing as soap to even attempt to wash your hands afterwards. The people just rinse their hands under water or do nothing and call it good. When going to the bathroom you have to stand in line and try not to puke due to the horrific smell, then grab how much toilet paper you think you need which is located on the wall outside before entering your desired stall. So everyone knew what you were about to do depending on how much toilet paper you grabbed with you before entering your stall. None of the doors would actually close or lock properly, and you must remember to throw your soiled toilet paper away, do not flush it down the squatty hole or drop it in the poo troff.  The level of cleanliness definitely scarred me for life, especially when trying to take a two and three year old to the bathroom. Oh boy, was that a challenge. We did our best to hold Abby and Connor over the squatty potties to do their "business" meanwhile trying not to touch anything or have them touch anything cause it was so gross. It got me wondering how do parents potty train their kids there? Then we saw it... we saw the special pants that had a giant slit in the crotch revealing the bare chaps on almost every Chinese toddler we saw. These pants made it possible that when the kids squatted, the slit opened up revealing their bare cheeks completely so they could relieve their bowels. I couldn't believe it. Kids were running around with their bum cheeks just hanging out and would squat in the middle of the street to relieve themselves. I guess that's one way to avoid accidents while potty training. 

After walking the perimeter we were exhausted and decided to take the dragon ferry back towards the entrance of the palace grounds. It was a fun little ride across the lake and the kids loved it. They thought we were riding on a real dragon. If only kids, if only.

On our final day in Beijing we went to the zoo to see the special panda bear exhibit. The panda bear is considered one of China's "treasures" and are loved by all the Chinese people. This was probably Abby's and Connor's favorite part of the trip so far. They loved seeing the pandas and the other animals. It turned into a game for them as they ran around trying to spot the animals first. At times I felt like we were the animals in the exhibit because the people would walk past us and stare and point. I mean you would think they had never seen Americans or westerners before by the amount of starring we received. I do have some empathy for the animals on display now.

Our last stop was visiting a hutong village that was over 2,000 years old!!! We didn't just get a tour of the Hutong neighborhood (Which by the way families are still living there! These hutongs have been passed down from family to family to family over the last thousands of years) we got a rickshaw tour of the area! Rickshaws are bike drawn little buggies. It was fun winding down these old alleyways and viewing the beautifully restored homes. We got to go in the courtyard of a hutong courtyard home and learn about the importance of it's layout, and a little about it's history. That particular neighborhood dates older than the Forbidden City. The traditional courtyard residence consists of a courtyard in the center of the living quarters with several rooms along the perimeter. These rooms were for different family members within a family. Back in the day the whole family would live together in these little courtyard residences. Over the years the families would pass these homes down through their lineage, even up to today. These courtyard homes are very precious now to the Chinese people and it is very rare you will ever find one for sell because it is so important for the Chinese people to keep them in their families. 

I actually really like the concept. It was like each family lived in a private little courtyard which was a part of a big neighborhood. So you have your family all right there with you as well as your friends and community by you. It's secluded and private, yet very social and easy to get around go visit others and shop/trade like they did back then. I just couldn't help but think of all the different generations that lived within those walls. It was a fun traditional ride through a very traditional neighborhood, viewing traditional living quarters. 

Alas our time in Beijing had come to an end. We said our goodbyes to Barry and Zhong, our driver. They were very patient to put up with us and our kids, who definitely had their fair share of melt downs in the car due to exhaustion. So long Beijing, you were incredible. Now it's off to Xi'ian!